David Freeze: Visiting yet more mountain state parks
Published 12:00 am Thursday, August 8, 2024
Lake Lure from atop Chimney Rock. David Freeze photo
Chimney Rock at Chimney Rock State Park. David Freeze photo
From atop Chimney Rock! David Freeze photo
Upper Bearwallow Falls, one of 20 waterfalls at Gorges State Park. David Freeze photo
The new visitor center at Gorges State Park. David Freeze photo
The Crowder’s Mountain Visitors Center. David Freeze photo
The lake at Crowder’s Mountain State Park. David Freeze photo
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Editor’s note: David Freeze is a runner, running coach and long-distance cyclist from China Grove in Rowan County. He is visiting all 41 state parks in North Carolina. Contact him at david.freeze@ctc.net.
By David Freeze
I wanted to visit all the state parks in the mountains region of North Carolina during the recent warm spell, expecting cooler days would be more likely at elevation. On July 23, I completed my visits to three more of those parks.
My first stop was Crowder’s Mountain State Park, nearest to Gastonia and with 5,300 acres. The park opened in 1970, and is best known for two peaks, Crowder’s Mountain and the Pinnacle, both rising over 800 feet above the surrounding area. The park has a 9-acre lake but none of the rushing creeks or waterfalls of the other parks. It also has few amenities and only backcountry camping. It does have boulders and rock faces for rock climbing, something that I didn’t see and had hoped to.
The park has lots of hiking trails with two of the longer and more strenuous ones leading to the tops of the two mountains plus one that crosses into South Carolina and terminates at Kings Mountain National Military Park. I did most of the Fern Trail and part of the Lake Trail, both easier and perfect for anyone. I was on a time schedule and found the visitor center not open as posted and had to get my stamp done by a maintenance person. Overall, I was less impressed by this park, its amenities and appearance. I finally got a map from the front desk once they did open and noticed rock climbing was only briefly mentioned in “For Your Safety.”
The Carolina Climbers website says, “Crowders Mountain State Park provides convenient climbing near a major N.C. city. With easily accessible top rope anchors on a number of crags and quality bolted lead routes, Crowders has a little something for everyone. Throw in the Dixon School Road boulders (reached via the aptly named Boulders entry) and you have quite the climbing resource.
After a long drive, my next park was Gorges State Park near Sapphire. It was a pleasant change of pace, absolutely beautiful and well-kept. I had a rare treat by seeing a small black bear cub run across the road as I drove toward the new visitor center. The park is one of the newer ones, opening in 2009. Great views are available from the visitor center. At more than 8,000 acres, the hiking trails highlight the scenic views of the mountain gorges. This is the park for all abilities of hikers, including a challenging one of 14.1 miles that fords the Toxaway River without a bridge. The park map has the most extensive and best-done description of eleven trails, all with elevation profiles. Novice hikers are not recommended on some trails.
I was interested in lesser hikes during this tour although I still hoped to test my abilities on a few tougher ones. I did the half-mile round trip on the steep trail to Upper Bearwallow Falls which drops 55 feet down a long cliff. The park has a new camping area with space for RVs and tents. Five rental cabins are also included. Lots of free camping is available along the trails with reservation. Horses and mountain bikes are permitted on one 7.2-mile trail. Elevation of the hiking trails peaks at just over 3,100 feet.
Chimney Rock State Park is 8,014 acres and was first established in 2007 as Hickory Nut Gorge State Park. The entrance is located in downtown Chimney Rock and crosses the Rocky Broad River there before climbing to the ticket plaza. I was told that access to anything higher costs $17.50, the first state park so far that has charged admission. After a discussion about free areas mentioned in my guidebook free areas, the attendant told me that the free areas were included but I still had to pay the admission to proceed up the mountain. The free areas are at other access points, Rumbling Bald and Eagle Rock. The attendant did lower my admission to $15 as a AAA member.
At this point, my plans turned south. A heavy rain began to fall, and then I was told that the popular Hickory Nut Falls trail was closed for repair. The falls, one of the highest east of the Mississippi, drops 404 feet over a rocky cliff. I had looked forward to the 1.7-mile trail but will do this later.
At the main parking area, I realized that the rain was driving folks to their cars, and they were leaving. Better for me, as I hoped to ride the elevator to the top as the crowd lessened. A few minutes later, I walked directly to the elevator to the top level. A gift shop, concessions and restrooms are inside as visitors exit to walk to the actual Chimney Rock at 2,280 feet. Rain was lessening as the storm pulled away. The stair climb to the rock was good and the viewing spectacular although walking in that area was on uneven and wet rock. The top of the rock was crowded, all under a giant American flag.
Another trail that I will return to do is the Skyline Trail, at 2,480 feet, that looks down on Chimney Rock. It is 2.2 miles round trip from Devil’s Head to Exclamation Point. Included along the way is the headwaters of Hickory Nut Falls. Three other trails, one for kids and the incredible views make the park worth the admission fee.
Thirteen parks complete, 29 to go.
