David Freeze: The final state parks spark plenty of memories
Published 12:00 am Thursday, October 17, 2024
Wonderful memories, plenty of fun and plans to visit again. David Freeze photo
The Atlantic Ocean from the top of Fort Macon. David Freeze photo
Freeze’s own map after visits to North Carolina’s state parks. David Freeze photo
View of Beaufort Inlet from the Fort Macon State Park. David Freeze photo
Inside of Fort Macon, built in 1834. David Freeze photo
The moat around Fort Macon, only there because of the heavy rains the day before. David Freeze photo
The back side of the Hammocks Beach visitor center. David Freeze photo
View off the back deck of the Hammocks Beach visitors center. Camp Lejeune Marine Corps Base is next door to the south. David Freeze photo
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Editor’s note: David Freeze is a runner, running coach and long-distance cyclist from China Grove in Rowan County. He has visited all 42 state parks in North Carolina. Contact him at david.freeze@ctc.net.
By David Freeze
On Sept. 17, I drove north to Hammocks Beach State Park near Swansboro. Established in 1961, this park includes 1,611 acres. I was excited by the description of the park and its three islands just offshore, but especially by the ferry service to the biggest of the islands. Just offshore also is the Intracoastal Waterway.
The visitors center has a panoramic view of all that water off its back deck. In fact, I couldn’t remember another visitor center with such an outstanding view. The visitor center also had lots of displays about the park and its history. I got my passport stamp and asked the attendant about the ferry to Bear Island. Over the years, many visitors have taken their beach chairs and other gear to spend a day at Bear Island on the ocean. A bathhouse, restrooms, concession stand and 14 primitive campsites are on the beach and inlet. The beach front is almost four miles wide.
The ferry has been closed this year as the island aquifer couldn’t handle the traffic. I was told by the desk attendant that the ferry should return next year. The only swimming and camping in the park are on Bear Island. In retrospect, I should have asked about canoe, kayak or paddle boat accessibility to the island, but regardless I plan to return to spend a day here.
The park includes 225-acre Huggins Island, an undeveloped maritime swamp forest with significant Civil War history. Dudley Island, a remote marshland with some beach front, and little James Island, another remote marshland, are also in the park. Nesting birds and marine life use these islands. There are four easy to moderate hiking trails near the visitor center and all are connected in the upland coastal forest.
My 42nd and last state park was one I had visited before during a bike ride on the inner and outer banks of N.C. As a history buff, I love Fort Macon State Park near Atlantic Beach. Fort Macon was the second state park and was added to the system in 1924. Bought for one dollar from the U.S. government with an agreement that it could be taken back if needed, the park’s 424 acres were restored by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s.
The fort itself is the centerpiece of the park, but the large visitor center is the place to start for information, a map and a wonderful movie about the fort. I decided to take the free tour given by a volunteer this time. Not on a time rush, I decided to learn all I could about the fort. The five-sided fort faces the Atlantic Ocean and sits next to both Bogue Sound and Beaufort Inlet, and it receives one million visitors a year, exceeded only recently by Jordan Lake State Park. On the Fourth of July, most of the cannons in the fort are fired by Civil War reenactors.
Fort Macon was built in 1834 as part of U.S. coastal fort system. In 1861, Confederate troops took the fort and held it until the Union troops took it back in 1862. It served as a federal prison from 1867 to 1876. It was used again for coastline protection during WWII. Much of the fort living quarters and storage areas have been redone in galleries depicting the various time periods of the fort, with displays of weapons, clothing and so much more.
Swimming, picnicking and fishing are available with lifeguards and a refreshment stand during summer months along with outdoor grills, drinking water, a pavilion and restrooms. I especially enjoyed watching the boats of all sizes using the Beaufort Inlet. For me, so much history and all the beautiful waterfront makes Fort Macon my favorite state park. No doubt, I could spend a day here easily.
This ends my summer tour of all 42 state parks, another exciting way to cross the state. I ran across the state, visiting all 100 county seats and had two bike trips that crossed the eastern edge. Prior to these visits, I had seen less than 10 of the beautiful state parks. A friend told me at Food Lion the other day that he had no idea about all there is to do at the parks. Honestly, neither did I. Already, I can’t wait to return to at least six of them for things I couldn’t do this summer. I want to hike over Stone Mountain, see the view from Mt. Mitchell without clouds, spend a day on the beach at Fort Fisher, ride the ferry to Bear Island at Hammocks Beach, go canoe camping on the New River and run at Lake James.
Only a few parks charge for admission, but that includes all the huge lakes for recreation and Chimney Rock. Low-cost camping is available everywhere and bicycles, canoes and kayaks are for rent at most of the parks with water. Wonderful hiking trails are free and can be as challenging as you want. Rich history is abundant throughout the system. I visited all the parks during the spring and summer and didn’t feel crowded anywhere. Three new ones are in the works, and I will visit just as soon as they open.
Finally, the North Carolina State Parks Passport book with all the stamps inside is now a treasured possession.
